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Atomic kittens

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Smudge, Flo, Alby and that other one who used to cower behind the sofa whose name escapes me - four little bundles of joy gone from my life forever, but never to be forgotten.

What the hell am I on about? Well, seeing as you asked so nicely, I'm referring to four vulnerable balls of fluff with legs, claws and fully-functional teeny weeny digestive systems that I found down the side of my bed in April.


Four vulnerable balls of fluff that have grown into proper little animals [specifically: cats] with much bigger digestive systems and insatiable appetites for flies, string and butter, though not necessarily in that order.

Oh, and TVs - little Smudge loved to perch in front of the telly, and especially enjoyed supporting Russia's ill-fated Euro 2012 campaign. He was never a subscriber to the 'group of dearth' school of thought, and how we joshed with him when they failed to progress beyond the group stage.
Yes, four little kittens that I found down the side of my bed. A sarf London stray nicknamed Vera's boyfriend [we got that one wrong], Babs and later Gracie crept in through the cat flap, climbed the stairs and squeezed into what's almost certainly the least attractive and most hygienically questionable part of our home; a place where hairs, dust and microorganisms reign supreme.

There she lay, snuggled between a mattress and a wall atop unidentifiable detritus, shortly to pop out her offspring. You couldn't have wished for a less graceful entry into the world.

Fast forward a few hours and a tired, irritable Charlie gets home from work. It is Friday afternoon. He went out last night and didn't win the annual work ten-pin bowling tournament. He dealt with the disappointment by drinking at least two bottles of Blue Moon. It was one of those nights.

Charlie's housemates are out for the evening. He is relieved - he wants to slob. Wednesday's leftovers are heated up and Charlie sits down on the sofa, meal on lap. He reaches towards the remote control, but before the dulcet tones of Alex Jones invade his ear canals, he pauses - for there is an unexpected high-pitched squeal of juvenile vulnerability.

"Hmm, it must be outside," he tells Ms Jones. The One Show presenter does not reply, for she is at work and has better things to do, like reading the autocue. Little did Charlie know at the time, but he would later make room for Alex Jones as she made her way to a pub toilet in Putney. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is the topic of my next blog. Let's just say the next person had to give it a few minutes.

But no, the squeal was coming from upstairs. It was a noise that demanded human intervention. Fortunately for whatever the hell was making the noise, I [farewell third person; hello first person] wasn't a natural history documentary cameraman. No, I wasn't going to stand by and do nothing - I planned to alter the course of nature and bloody well save this desperate animal-in-need. As soon as I had finished my dinner.

God it was nice - peppered mackerel, spinach, rice, a couple of cheeky cardamom pods, parsley and lemon zest.

After gorging on the above I was quite full. The antithesis of feline agility, I lumbered up the stairs precariously and clumsily. Heaven forbid a sleeping kitten, or something, got in my way. Fortunately, nothing of the sort happened and I rushed into my room, out of breath and coated in a glistening light sweat. The setting sun flooded in through the window, highlighting the slowly-descending droplets on my forehead and arms. Apart from the indigestion, panting and fish breath, I looked and smelt every inch the hero.

And then I saw it. A slithery, poo-shaped blob writing around on the floor. It was squealing loudly and harrowingly, its eyes tightly shut while four useless legs reached out in vain for an absent mother. Vera was presiding over it, emanating a sense of pride, guilt and bewilderment. Naturally, I lambasted her on two counts to cover both possible scenarios: 1) Vera, you cannot steal kittens and 2) Why didn't you tell me you were pregnant, you nobhead?

But Vera can't have cat babies, for we are responsible pet owners and saw that her womb was removed. By a vet. Possibly against her [Vera's, not the vet's] will.

Quick, I thought, bloody well do something. This could form the basis of a bloomin' brilliant blog in a few months' time. So I reached into my cupboard for a comedy t-shirt - this one, in case you were wondering - and being careful not to smother the little fellow or wench [I just Googled 'female version of fellow', if you're thinking 'wench' looks a little incongruous. Yes, I've taken the time to entertain and educate you], lifted it onto my bed. I tried to do the whole talk-in-a-cutsie-high-pitched voice thing, but the Blue Moon was still having an effect and I ended up sounding like Frank Butcher's camp, Chingford-based cousin.

I sourced Vera's cage and put the pathetic little kitten inside it. The first phase of Operation Keep Tiny Animal Alive had gone smoothly - it was safe from the fatal potential of falling books, duvets and Vera's mouth. But now what?

"R-E-S-P-E-C-T! Find out what it means to me! R-E-S-P-E-C-T!"

Why had Aretha Franklin lyrics popped into my head, all of a sudden? Perhaps it was the panic. I was frantically trying to remember a sequence of letters beginning with R. "Re, re, re…" I said out loud, adopting a change of tack. Realising I sounded like an excitable dog who's spotted the postman's arrival, I stopped; after all, it was hardly the time. Then from nowhere it popped into my head: the RSPCA. Of course!

The RSPCA isn't that keen on people looking to get rid of unwanted kittens, which explains why I was greeted with a pre-recorded message when selecting the relevant option. I phoned back - I'd only gone and found a squirrel with a broken leg, as luck would have it, which granted me the freedom to select option 9 and speak to a real lady.

"And how's the squirrel doing?"

"Yeah, about that - I've actually found a kitten."

"Right, is it with its mother?"

"No."

"Do you know where its mother is?"

"No. Please tell me what to do."

"Make sure it's safe and wait for the mother to return. She won't be far away. If she's not back within two hours, call us straight back."

"Will do; thanks."

And so began phase two - opening the cage door, putting it on the floor, and waiting. No, hang on - putting the cage on the floor, then opening the door and waiting. But as I reached for the cage, something caught my eye. There was a little round ball, approximately three times the size of the encaged kitten, tucked in the little slither of space parallel to my bed. On closer inspection, the ball had 12 little legs and fur. As far as furry little balls go [careful now], it seemed happy enough. Yes, the protagonist of this furry, slithery story had three brothers and/or sisters. And as things stood, the litter was camped out in my room indefinitely. It was a rubbish situation, and I was feeling pretty down in the dumps about it. But there was no time to waste. I'll stop now.

By this point, I was conscious that Gardeners' World would soon be starting. I picked up the kitten - who was comically nestled between homo erectus and homo sapien on my t-shirt - and reunited it with its siblings. The ball became a little bit bigger and a little bit happier, and I was presented with a two-hour window in which to watch Monty Don put up his beanpoles.

It transpired that my brother, whom I happen to live with, wasn't out for the evening after all. No, he had rushed back from the pub to watch Gardeners' World too, and who could blame him? As the first beanpole was expertly positioned, Tom opened the door and let out a breathless cry of "Has it started yet?!"

"Yes Tom, yes it has, but it's early days."

Ten minutes quickly passed - this was the kind of escapism I needed. But it was time to let the cat out of the bag. The paws had gone on long enough.

"Oh yeah," I said, "there's something I need to tell you."

"Uh?"

"Yeah, I found a load of kittens down the side of my bed."

"Oh right? How did they get there?"

I brought him bang up to date, and we decided that Monty Don should take a back seat. Sure, he can stay on in the background, but this required a brother-to-brother conversation - something a few notches up from the usual grumblings and pleasantries.

"We should do something."

"Yes, we should."

And with that brief exchange we were out of the door and knocking on our neighbours' doors, such is the power of brotherly problem-solving intuition. Feeling like a pair of Jehovah's Witnesses, we were greeted with unanimous confusion and suspicion by our SE17 comrades. The typical exchange went as follows:

"Hi there, I am Charlie and I am your neighbour. Do you have a pregnant cat?"

"Um, no."


"Ah right. Well, I've found a litter of kittens in my house you see, so we're trying to find the owner of whoever the mum is.

"How strange. But like I said, I don't have a cat. In fact, I hate cats."

"Oh, that's unfortunate. By the way, this drive of yours is looking a bit tatty, have you thought about…?"

Door slams shut.

After dejectedly returning home, we crept up the stairs and poked our heads around my bedroom door, closely tailed by young Vera, who was finding the whole episode terribly exciting.
Hurrah! The mum cat was there, being all mum-like and feeding the little ones. After more poor attempts at speaking in a high-pitched voice, the strategic placing of some blankets we didn't mind sacrificing to cat piss, and some Whiskas Jelly Fisherman's Choice, the bond between cat and man, and man's brother, and man and man's brother's cat, was established.

From this day forward, it was to be labour of love caring and providing for a feline family headed by two females - Vera's boyfriend aka Babs aka Gracie, and 'Aunty' Vera. Had the Daily Mail got hold of the story, there would have been uproar. The plague of same-sex couples bringing up kids has spread to the domesticated animal world, and that bloody Olympics Opening Ceremony is to blame.
And that, ladies and gentleman, is the story of how I became a father, of sorts. To be honest, any narrative would tail off [I thank you] from here on in. To summarise, the kittens grew to become bigger kittens and we sold them 10 weeks later for a healthy profit. Only joking, we gave them away to nice non-Londoners with gardens and rat infestations.

What have we learned from this little story? To remember to invest in one of those magnetic cat flaps. Oh, and to not forget about cat number one. The following morning, no doubt feeling unloved and vying for our attention, Vera popped in with two dead pigeons in a catastrophically-misjudged attempt to impress us. As punishment, we fed her moths for a week. That'll learn her.

An interview with Peter Schmeichel

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He's 8' 7", weighs 25 stone and shot to fame while trying to catch fast-moving balls in the 1990s.

That's right - it's Denmark's famous honorary Mancunian and ex Premier League superstar goalkeeper Peter Schmeichel, and I was lucky enough to have a Google Hangout with the man himself (and a few others, ahem) ahead of the Premier League's return this weekend.

Here's what he had to say:


George Orwell lives

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George Orwell, MoMA
Almost two months ago, I started a blog by writing: "They say you should never meet your heroes - that they won't live up to expectations, that you'll be disappointed."

Well, having met Lee 'Scratch' Perry at London City Airport and being thoroughly undisappointed, I thought it was about time I met another of my heroes. Unfortunately, one cannot plan these encounters if one wants to avoid being slapped with a restraining order, so I had to rely on chance.

And it sort of delivered - over the last few weeks I smiled awkwardly at Dan Cruickshank at Liverpool Street station, spotted Jenny Eclair gawping at cakes in Covent Garden, and watched Dawn from Eastenders' bottom wiggle up Tottenham Court Road, along with the rest of her body.

But none of these has hero status in my slowly-failing eyes, so I strolled onto an aeroplane and let the nice pilot fly me to New York City - which happens to be in the United States of America, where lots of famous people live. And hopefully a hero or two of mine.

After five days of traipsing Manhattan's uniformly-planned streets and having no luck whatsoever, I was beginning to think the excursion across the pond had been a complete waste of time. I had to be at JFK Airport in four hours - I would have one more bagel, one more qwafee, and one more session of pacing around a really busy place in the hope of seeing a revered face.

I decided on MoMA - The Museum of Modern Art - and boom, there he was. Granted, George Orwell is supposed to have died in 1950, but he must have been cryogenically frozen, or something, after relocating to Mexico and just not told anyone. 

I felt to satisfied after laying eyes on him that I slept like a baby all the way back to London, and on arrival decided it was probably a good idea to get on with the rest of my life.
George Orwell BBC
See, I bloody well told you it was him

The Standard Hotel, New York: A review

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The Standard hotel New York bar pool
It's a place where passers-by can watch you defecate to their heart's content, where champagne-glugging models take their clothes off in front of your disbelieving eyes and where floor-to-ceiling views of Lower Manhattan will suck the breath from your windpipe.

I refer to The Standard Hotel in New York City, where I laid my eyebrows-dominated head for a couple of nights in August. Located in the ball-achingly trendy Meatpacking District, it's arguably more famous for its bogs than its rooms. "Just wait till you see them," my girlfriend said on the cab ride there, referring to its Tommy Crappers. "They're on the top floor and you can see right across New York!"

Following a bamboozling check-in process (The Standard is too trendy for normal entrances or signs), young Brian showed us up to our room, which was clearly designed to meet the sordid needs of passing voyeurs. Condoms were neatly presented on the side table and a bath-for-two sat beside an open wooden slat arrangement - which itself sat beside enormous room-height windows. And just in case you didn't happen to be in the mood, there were a couple of bottles of whisky within arms' reach of the bath.
The Standard hotel New York room
You'll be relieved to hear that there was no time for hanky panky, for the good lady wife took me by the hand and led me upstairs. No, not like that - when was the last time your hotel room had two storeys? I was being led to the rooftop cocktail bar - a space that straddles inside and out, where discerning Slippery Bald Beaver-sippers gawp at 360-degree views of New York and talk rhinoplasty in between pouting for Instagram photos. At least that's what I had been told - first off, we had to make our way past the lady at the door and her doting bouncer.

It was about 7pm. I was wearing a shirt and relatively tight jeans. My girlfriend was looking as wonderful as ever. But my UNIQLO purchase and slightly squashed nether regions counted for nothing. "We're full," the door lady said, looking at me up and down like a hungry fat kid presented with a gherkin. "But it's 7," I replied. Hold on a minute - look at the state of me! Who did I think I was? Someone with the right to reply? I was not worthy Standard Hotel cocktail bar door lady; I was not worthy!

Only I was, because we were spending hundreds of dollars for the privilege of staying there, something my wife [she's not my wife] told the sour-faced bint after I had been put in my place, tail between my legs. There's something about two women arguing that men cannot compete with - such vitriolic potential, it sends the shivers down our spines. The bouncer and I cast each other knowing glances; we knew what was about to erupt, so he went ahead and bloody well opened that door. I put my hands on the Mrs's shoulders and encouraged her through with a gentle shove.
The Standard Hotel New York pool
Expecting a bar rammed full of the fresh brigade, we were somewhat underwhelmed by the presence of about 10 people, approximately seven of whom were coked off their faces and getting their tits out in a very dangerous pool. I could see why the door lady didn't want to let us in, so to fit in a little better I took off my shirt, folded it neatly on a bar stool and started sniffling every couple of minutes while getting increasingly self conscious of my body hair, of which there is plenty, thanks for asking. I want to be a part of it; New York, New York!

But our reason for propping up this most pretentious of bars was not to indulge in the clientele's narcissistic wankfest; no, it was to see the famed water closets. We glugged down whatever the hell we were drinking and made our way to the unisexual cubicles. "See, I told you they were amazing," my girlfriend said [I'm this close to revealing her name. She is real, honest. Ha ha ha. No really, she is.]
The Empire State Building from The Standard Hotel New York
And spank my arse and call me Charlie, they really were! Not the toilets per se, that would be odd, but the views from their windows. Midtown was sprawled in front and beneath us; the stunning view dominated by an illuminated Empire State Building. "The best thing," my lady whispered, "is that you can only see out, no-one can see in." Oh, I see where this is going. My neck received a little kiss, and I dropped my trousers in a flash. Not to free up the little chaps I referred to earlier, but to see if the hordes below were put off their High Line stroll. In what resembled a scene from Cloverfield, the throng fled in terror in all directions, some hurling themselves into the mighty Hudson River at the sight of my furry behind. One-way windows, my arse.
The Standard hotel New York toilets
I should point out that some of the above isn't strictly true. Mainly the last bit - we just got a bit worried that people would see, so we stopped and slunked off to a much nicer bar in Greenwich Village to have a remarkably normal evening. But the point stands - if someone was having a poo and you were walking along the High Line glancing upwards, which tends to happen a lot in New York, you could see their bottom! And their straining face! It's just not cricket, which probably explains why just about every national newspaper in the US and the UK has run the story in the last couple of months.

So that, ladies and gentlemen, is the good, the bad and the ugly of The Standard Hotel. Have a nice day, now.

An interview with Michael Palin

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What do the North and South Poles, the Sahara Desert and my office have in common? They've all been trodden on by Britain's nicest man, Michael Palin. And while I couldn't make the Poles or the desert, I could the latter - so naturally the comedian-turned explorer sat down for a chat about his latest book and TV series, Brazil.

The Amsterdam Cat Museum and other tails

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Amsterdam Cat Museum
If there's one thing that's defined my 2012, it's cats. There have literally been litter loads of them. So it seemed fitting to cap off the year by heading to Amsterdam - a city that puts up its stray moggies in a glorious houseboat. But even more endearing is the surreal Kattenkabinet - a museum that celebrates man's ability to fashion feline-themed pinball machines, porcelain paperweights and zoomorphised mannequins - futile, time-consuming and expensive endeavours, but endeavours born of the power of love. The results are charming, unfathomable and please-let-me-out-of-here-oh-no-I-can't-find-the-exit creepy. As Borat Sagdiyev once said; entry, please, as I reveal four hand-picked highlights:

Exhibit 1: The cat pinball machine


Cat pinball machine
Have a thing for pinball and cats, you dirty bastard? If so, you'll love the cat pinball machine! It may be the most one-dimensional pinball machine ever created, but the lack of functionality and flair is more than made up for by the flawless uniformity of the game's feline subjects and the suggestive communist undertones. Also present is that most necessary ingredient of animal sculptures: vulnerability; for the cats are made of porcelain, while the ball that crashes into them is metal. The cats should smash, but they merely imitate the relentless thudding sound of hammer crashing into sickle (you know, like at the start of Red Alert). They are indestructible; supremely confident and expressionless as they methodically work for the common good - namely the entertainment of the three people per day who see them.

Exhibit 2: Death cat 1


Death cat
When your cat dies, the obvious course of action for the disturbed is budget taxidermy. And by that I mean cutting off the deceased pet's hair and whiskers, chucking away the carcass and re-attaching the hair to a crude wire-framed cat body resembling aged asphalt decorated with run-over pigeon. If a cat could live to 100, this is what it would look like. 

Exhibit 3: Psychedelic Teletabbies


Creepy cat painting
It's a little-known fact that Tinky Winky, Dipsy, Laa-Laa and Po, despite their cumbersome frames and juvenility, successfully nurtured two young pyschotropic Teletabbies; the playmates of young Noo-Noo the vacuum cleaner (who was understandably perceived as more television friendly). Fortunately, the pair have been brought to the Dutch public's attention by the deranged Mr/Ms Van Der Steer/Steed. Unfortunately, the painting hasn't received the attention it deserves due to its X-rated nature. The phallus-resembling tail, come-to-bed eyes, body language - it makes you sick to the stomach, which is why the curator couldn't bring herself (she is a she; I checked) to hang it properly.

Exhibit 4: Death cat 2


Death cat
Tucked away in a non-descript corner is the gloriously-pink death cat #2, an incongruous choice of colour for an exhibit that's so obviously dead. Perhaps he or she was an alcoholic. Other possible causes of death: asphyxiation; not being able to move towards food/water due to an absence of limbs. 

The Tropenmuseum


Shabba Ranks haircut
The perfect antidote to the Kattenkabinet's surrealism is the Tropenmuseum (if you're an uncultured monoglot like me, which you are, that means 'museum of the tropics'). Blissfully, there aren't any cats here - but there are the rare opportunities of decorating your sorry head with a Shabba Ranks haircut, running a Middle Eastern café and discovering in a little too much detail puberty rituals in Africa. Marvellous. 

Snow in London: Slightly clichéd photographs

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Occasionally, the mercury plummets to such depths that it becomes too cold to snow. Which is, of course, absolutely untrue - the people spouting such myths clearly haven't roamed the snowy wastelands of the Arctic or Antarctic. I digress. It 'felt' a positively polar minus 7 degrees C in London today, and the snow-clogged clouds dutifully deposited their fluffy white contents over the capital's streets as I was plodding around during my lunch hour. So naturally I joined in with everybody else struggling with their camera's exposure and white balance settings to take the following slightly clichéd photographs. Ka-boom:

Snowing in front of Big Ben

Snow settles on South Bank

Snow in Victoria Embankment Gardens

Frozen cafe

Snow on South Bank

Snowy Victoria Embankment Gardens

Michael Lee Johnson's on foot to freedom: Walking from Beijing to London

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Michael Lee Johnson On Foot to Freedom
Imagine clambering aboard an aeroplane in London bound for Beijing. In just ten-and-a-half hours, your jet-propelled metal cocoon will have carried you more than 5,000 miles en route to the Chinese capital. Now imagine bedding down for the night, awakening bright and early the next morning, lacing up the walking boots and strolling back home to the UK, alone and unaided, through some of the most volatile countries on the planet (Belgium in January; a nasty, nasty business, let me tell you), and minus the crow's advantage of travelling the most direct route. So, add another 4,000 miles onto the 5,000, slow down the average speed from 450 mph to four, and you're looking at a journey that will take three to five years to complete. Yes, the margin for error is as great as a hamster's life, a simile that achieves precisely the opposite effect I intended.

One man soon won't have to imagine the above, for this summer he will attempt to do it for real. His name is Michael Lee Johnson. He is 28 years-old and works as a web designer/online marketer in Widnes, a Cheshire town that deserves greater recognition owing to its schooling of girl power joint founder, Mel C. From an old Spice Girl to the old spice route - but Widnes' next celebrity in waiting is no rambler, and adventure travel has hitherto left his fancy distinctly untickled. By his own admission, Michael isn't much of an outdoors person - the majority of the last two decades have been spent staring at pixels on a monitor. "It's not a life," he told me. "I'm not scared of dying; I'm scared of not living." So the obvious course of action, apparently, is to walk across Eurasia in the footsteps of Marco Polo in a project dubbed On Foot to Freedom.

I was speaking to Michael on behalf of Stanfords, and naturally I asked all the obvious questions. How's your Mandarin? Is your mother worried? How many pairs of socks are you taking? Rather than plagiarise my own work, let me suggest putting the kettle on, treating yourself to a camomile teabag and clicking here to read the interview in full. And in case you need a little persuasion, here's another gem of quote from the man himself: "I know it won't be a walk in the park whichever route I choose, but the premise stays the same: I just need to put one foot in front of the other for three to five years." Amen.

Shard: View from the top

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At 309m it's the tallest building in Europe (by tallest in Europe I mean western Europe, and by tallest I mean second-tallest after the 324m Eiffel Tower; though that's not technically a building because it's a structure, right? But if we were to include creations like Gustave Eiffel's, the Shard, which opened to the public last Friday, is only the 10th-tallest construction in the UK, let alone the continent - a full 55 metres shorter than that most celebrated of north-west landmarks, the Skelton Mast in Cumbria), and last night I decided to take the two kaleidoscopic lifts up to the Shard's Level 68. Despite the many and varied fingerprints, Brylcreem streaks and camera flashes, I managed to take the following slightly-too-grainy images thanks to a whopping great ISO setting. If you don't know what that means, move along; you're not wanted here.

Shard: View from the top

London Bridge railway lines from the Shard

St Paul's from the Shard

Shard: The view east towards Canary Wharf

Shard: View down to London Bridge

Shard: View west towards London Eye

Shard: The summit

Travis Elborough on London Bridge in America: The Tall Story of a Transatlantic Crossing

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Travis Elborough - London Bridge in America
I sat down for a chat with the lovely Travis Elborough, author of London Bridge in America: The Tall Story of a Transatlantic Crossing, to talk about one the most bizarre chapters in Anglo-American history: the upheaval and subsequent plonking of London Bridge in the Arizonan desert.

The London Bridges of old were famous for involuntarily falling down, but in 1968 the one built in 1831 - a far sturdier structure than its predecessors - was voluntarily dismantled, brick by brick, and transported to the Arizonan desert, where it was rebuilt for the benefit of holidaying Americans.

It's among the most bizarre stories of the 20th century, and one that author Travis Elborough has breathed new life into with his latest book, London Bridge in America: The Tall Story of a Transatlantic Crossing - a title that promises to reveal as much about Anglo-American relations as it does the 3,000-mile journey of a London landmark.

So, starting with the obvious question - why was London Bridge dismantled, sent across the Atlantic and painstakingly reconstructed somewhere at first glance non-descript, roughly equidistant from Phoenix and Los Angeles?

"London Bridge was put up for sale in 1967 after a decision that it no longer met the needs of London, which was becoming an increasingly mobile and motorised city," Travis explains.

"This was the swinging 60s, with lots of new buildings going up and huge plans for motorways. The bridge also happened to sinking slowly into the mud of the Thames by about an eighth of an inch a year. So it was put up for sale."

Step forward American businessmen Robert P. McCulloch and C. V. Wood - the former an oil baron and chainsaw entrepreneur; the latter a theme park designer who had a hand in Disneyland - the men bankrolling the development of Lake Havasu City, Arizona's latest purpose-built tourist resort. It had the golf courses, hotels and climate - but there was a certain something missing.

"They saw an opportunity in buying London Bridge," Travis adds, "a way of putting their new lakeside resort city on the map, by having this slice of old England in the middle of the desert."

So did the Corporation of London, which put the bridge up for sale, envisage it travelling to another continent? Or would they have rather seen a London icon remain in Britain?

"Canada was almost the preferred setting because it's Commonwealth country," Travis says. "But the person whose idea it was to sell London Bridge - a politician by the name of Ivan Luckin, was a bit of an Americanophile. He was a big admirer of William Randolph Hearst, who Orson Welles based his Citizen Kane character on, and who hoovered up architectural treasures across Europe before shipping them to his palace in California. Luckin certainly thought America as a likely destination."

And so it came to pass. Transaction complete; cue transatlantic diplomatic wrangling. "A bridge is one of those hilariously heavy with metaphor-type structures," Travis explains. "This is a book about cross-river traffic but also trans-Atlantic traffic, permeated with little stories about Anglo-American interconnections and relations.

"There's a rather poignant moment where the Americans are slightly unhappy with the speed of the bridge's transportation. To speed things up they brought in a Swedish firm - one of the forerunners of containerisation - at the same point London's docks are closing down because containerisation is killing them off."

London Bridge may no longer have been suitable for swinging London, but did a section of its forward-thinking population mourn its loss?

"They were surprisingly sanguine," Travis says. "The fact the bridge went up for sale fits into a particular element of London history at that time. Counteracting the thrusting modernity were the stirrings of a heritage and preservation movement. Just a few years before London Bridge was put up for sale was the classic case of the destruction of the Euston Arch - the original entrance to Euston Station - by the British Transport Commission, which sparked outrage. Shortly after, St Pancras Station was saved.

"The Corporation of London marketed the bridge's sale as an act of preservation; the alternative being its demolition. Looking through newspapers and commentaries of the time, most people weren't especially concerned about its departure. There were some snippier comments made when the Americans agreed to buy it - diary entries bemoaning its new location next to a golf course - so I suppose there's a certain English condescension."

By 1971, three years after it was bought, the re-erected London Bridge opened in Lake Havasu City (its replacement back in the capital, meanwhile, opened two years later in March 1973 - almost exactly 40 years ago). So how did its new surroundings compare with the murky Thames and the backdrop of London's financial district?

"It was initially erected on dry land and then water diverted through," Travis explains, " with Lake Havasu City soon becoming home to a pseudo English village, with a pub and a mock Trafalgar Square fountain.

"There's an extraordinary clip on YouTube of a variety show from 1972, a few months after the bridge had been formally re-opened, with Tom Jones and The Carpenters performing at Lake Havasu City. It's sold as a big resort - not very far away is Las Vegas, so it fits in with the pizzazzy idea of an attraction."

Robert Macfarlane on walking, writing and judging the 2013 Man Booker Prize

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Robert Macfarlane - The Old Ways
Imagine putting your coat on, opening the front door, closing it behind you and turning the key (you may not have to imagine the last bit if you have a door that locks itself, in which case I deeply envy you). You begin strolling along the pavement to a little field path and decide to keep on walking - the sun is shining and there's only so much of Tim Wonnacott a man can take, so why not? It proves a wise decision, because eventually you end up in Spain, the West Bank and the Himalayas, rambling to your heart's content and meeting lots of lovely people en route. When you arrive back home five years later, you decide to write a book not simply on the journey per se, but on landscape's influence on the human condition. 

It may sound like a collective fantasy of the red sock brigade, but the above project belongs to author and Cambridge English lecturer Robert Macfarlane, whose 1,500-mile perambulation is documented in his most recent book, The Old Ways: A Journey on Foot. I sat down with the man himself to talk about walking, writing and being on the judging panel of the 2013 Man Booker Prize, two out of three of which I have direct experience of. No, that's right, I'm not much of a walker. 

Hello Robert. Perhaps I'm being dense, but it strikes me from reviews that The Old Ways is a little difficult to summarise. Would you mind having a go? 

Well, it's not an easy book to summarise, nor was it an easy book to write, but in its simplest form it's a book about setting off from home on foot and following the paths that open up in front of you. It's also about the people I met during five years of on-and-off walking and the landscapes these encounters took me across.

In a more metaphoric sense, The Old Ways became a book about how we make sense of ourselves using landscape and how walking has been a way, for thousands of years, of navigating the world - both literally and metaphorically.

So you did you really just set off from home and start walking, or did you have a route in mind? 

The walk took its own form, which as it unfolded was both its virtue and its difficulty. Path led to path; person led to person. The first walk was from my door which led to a little field path, which led to a Roman road, which led to a Neolithic track called the Icknield Way, and that opened out into this amazing network of old ways that crossed the globe.

Wow. How far did you end up going? 

I walked between 1,000 and 1,500 miles, which actually isn't very far over lots of years; it wasn't continuous. I went as far as the Himalayas, Spain and the West Bank in Palestine. It took me from familiar territories in England up to northern and north-west Scotland, areas I also know well, and on to sea - the oceans have their paths too - and then overseas.

What were the overseas links?

It was partly drawn by people. I went to the Himalayas with an extraordinary ecologist and an explorer, who's walked his knowledge into being. In Spain I was with an artist who's also a pilgrim - he's made an incredible library of the forest at his home in Madrid. They're both magical people and they took me to magical places. Both journeys were about pilgrimage and why we walk for spiritual purposes.

The Old Ways is your third book about landscape. Is it the final part of a trilogy also featuring Mountains of the Mind and The Wild Places

The books are a trilogy because they overlap in lots of ways - describing a descent from mountaintop to beaten path - and I suppose each grew out of the last. Now I've found myself writing a fourth book in a trilogy called Underland, exploring the planet's subterranean worlds and what lies beneath the surface. Landscape is one of those things; I can't tell where it's going to stop.

2013 is shaping up to a busy one, what with being on the judging panel for this year's Man Booker Prize. How many books do you have to get through?

We receive the first titles just before Christmas. There are around 130 to read in total, and all judges must read all the books by the time of the Booker longlist meeting. It's not far off one book a day; a total of approximately 40,000 pages. It's certainly keeping me in one place - as it stands I'm 22 books in. 

I've done it before and I don't remember it being exhausting, but somebody recently came up to me and said "You're judging the Man Booker again? When you finished last time you told me you were never going to read a contemporary novel again." And here I am reading another 130. I'm sure I'll hit the wall at some point, but let's just say I'm just glad I'm not judging the year Hilary Mantel releases the third in her loose trilogy [after Wolf Hall and Bring Up the Bodies]. That jury will have it having over them.

A slightly cynical Sri Lanka travel guide

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Goyambokka Beach, Tangalla, Sri Lanka
Lonely Planet named it the top country to visit in 2013, Rick Stein told us to "go there because the curries are so good, the beaches are so unspoiled and the countryside will charm you" and, much to my chagrin, Lorraine Pascale would be visiting at exactly the same time as me. If only I had known while I was there, sigh.

But Sri Lanka, despite being 'back on the map' following decades of civil war, is a country that continues to divide travellers' opinions. In February I spoke to Simon Calder, The Independent's travel editor, who claimed he "couldn't see anything much transformed". Meanwhile, former UN spokesman in Sri Lanka Gordon Weiss warned that the country is "sliding into tyranny", such is the power and ubiquitous presence of its controversial president, Mahinda Rajapaksa.

And then earlier this month, a venomous tarantula with a leg span of eight inches - approximately the length of your face - was discovered on the island nation.

So, blessed with a two-week window of annual leave, I decided to bloody well grow up and travel there myself. Though not by myself - the whole camp hysteria on spotting a big spider thing had to be shared with a fellow traveller. So who to choose? After drawing up a shortlist of literally more than one, I decided my girlfriend would probably be the best option. Pack your suitcase (actually, mind taking a rucksack instead? It's more practical) love, we're going to a tropical island. Yes we are. Via a five-hour stopover in Doha.

An island roughly the size of Scotland, Sri Lanka has much to pack in over two weeks, so we decided to concentrate on exploring the southern and more developed half of the island. Clichéd? Perhaps. But with people (and they're relatively few in number with the war ending only four years ago) raving about the southern coast and the Hill Country, the north and east could wait. I scoured the internet for hours to devise the best itinerary, and I have unwavering confidence that it is thus:

  • Arrive in Colombo (travellers now have the option of flying to the predictably-named Mattara Rajapaksa International Airport in the south) and spend two nights in the capital.
  • Catch the train to Kandy and spend two nights in and around the second city and cultural capital.
  • Travel across the Hill Country for a day before a two-night stay close to Yala National Park.
  • Holiday time! Ride in a tuk-tuk to Tangalla for a four-night beach-side stint.
  • Travel a little further around the coast to Galle, the old Dutch/Portuguese colonial town, for two nights.
  • Catch the train to Colombo and onwards to Negombo for one night before flying home.

So this is what we did…

Manning Market, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Colombo


The Sri Lankan capital is a sort of Delhi or Mumbai Lite: similar in terms of architecture - from imposing run-down colonial buildings to colourful, filth-ridden markets - but calmer, less infuriating and minus the depressingly-common poverty synonymous with the Indian megacities.

Lacking must-see sights, Colombo is easily explored on foot - which allows the culture-shocked to discover peculiar street-side gems. My favourite was a poster sporting the London 2012 logo calling for 'Hope for the World' next to portraits of Mahinda Rajapaksa, Kim Jong-un and Ban Ki-moon. The first is facing international criticism for his army's illegal final pursuit of the Tamil Tigers, the second is sparking a fresh global nuclear crisis and the third was reluctant to pull his finger out during Sri Lanka's Civil War. Hope indeed.

What must-sees there are include the Old Dutch Hospital and the chaotic streets of Pettah - the latter is home to the sick-smelling banana paradise of Manning Market and shops selling everything from chick peas to Gangnam Style t-shirts (and impersonators, though you can't buy these, try as you might).

Stay:Lake Lodge - a fantastic tucked-away city-centre guesthouse with the tastiest Sri Lankan breakfast I've had the pleasure of putting in my mouth.
See: The Old Dutch Hospital - a renovated, er, hospital that's home to high-end bars, restaurants and shops. Expect to see people like you struggling to adjust to the heat, people like your parents in tie-dye, and office workers from the World Trade Center opposite. Its best food can be found at the Ministry of Crab.
Discover: Ditch your mainstream guidebook for Juliet Coombe's excellent Colombo City Guide.

Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage, Sri Lanka

Kandy


The train to Kandy, a destination where the temperature is a little cooler and the upcountry Sinhalese look down on their lowly neighbours, is relatively swift but shockingly bumpy. Sit in the Observation Car for the best views, preferably on the right-hand side - if you're stuck on the left you'll hopefully grow to love the 72 km-long grass verge three feet from your face. If you need a break from the monotony, walk to the carriage's open doorway and stick your head out: an excellent cure for motion sickness.

Despite its serene setting, Kandy is surprisingly manic - but then it is home to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, which apparently houses one of the Buddha's teeth. Time your visit here carefully - we arrived in the middle of the evening ceremony; an impressive spectacle but one marred by flash bulbs, telephoto lenses and, at a pilgrimage site that demands humility, too much undignified tourist enthusiasm.

I'll admit to preferring Kandy's surroundings to the city itself. Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage attracts throngs of visitors but for a less packed, less money-grabbing and more fulfilling elephant experience - if such a phrase exists - head to the Millennium Elephant Foundation, championed by one Mr Brian Blessed. You'll get to bathe with the animals, massage them with coconut husks and sit on their bristly backs as they take you for a ride in the foundation's beautiful grounds, with barely another visitor in sight.

Also easily accessible from Kandy is the imposing Sigiriya, Sri Lanka's very own Ayres Rock and home to the world's most terrifying staircase. En route, stop for lunch at Dambulla's cave temple complex, where statues of the Buddha camp in the rocks next to modest Hindu temples, making this possibly the world's only cave where two religions exist harmoniously. And yes, by that I do mean a part of me hopes for a cave populated by battling Rastafarians and Catholics. If you can avert for your gaze from the ready-to-pounce monkeys, there are also some spectacular views to enjoy.

Stay:Queen's Hotel - a grand old colonial hotel that doesn't attract the positive reviews it deserves.
See:Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic - just avoid the evening rituals, and remember to take off your shoes (consider bringing a clothes peg).
Discover: Hire a car and a driver cum tour guide, one you have chemistry with, and make the most of their local knowledge.

Tea pickers in Sri Lanka

The Hill Country


An ambitious day-long journey from Kandy to Tissamaharama (conveniently abbreviated to Tissa) on the edge of Yala National Park was made bearable by regular stop-offs in the beautiful Hill Country. First stop Nuwara Eliya, an unmistakably anglicised town both in terms of temperature (this is the coolest place in Sri Lanka) and appearance (its houses have bay windows, there's a racecourse and a golf course, and with hills in the background it bears more than a passing resemblance to Cheltenham). Slightly more charming though is Ella, a little further south-west and positioned atop Ella Gap, which affords fantastic views down the valley and across the countryside below. This is pretty much everyone's favourite hill station, apparently, and you can travel all the way here from Colombo on the train. Which is nice.

Central to the Hill Country's appeal is Sri Lanka's most celebrated export: tea. There are acres and acres of plantations here, many of which are ripe for exploration. Beware some of the more mercenary tea pickers - yes, all of the above, who delight at having their photo taken before demanding a wildly extortionate fee. Refuse and they'll get physical, and by that I mean feared tea leaf tickle torture techniques. If by some miracle you survive that, they'll curse you and your family. Either way, you're fucked. I haven't been able to enjoy a cup since.

Many of the tea factories welcome visitors for free (though naturally most exit through the gift shop, as it were), where it's perfectly OK to shamelessly indulge in the minutiae of tea production. Get there before the coach parties of obese tea geeks, most of whom will do just that for an infuriatingly long amount of time and without any respect for your personal space.

Stay: We lunched rather than stayed at the Grand Ella Motel, which has the most fantastic views through Ella Gap.
See: Tea. Whether it's growing, drying or brewing - see it, smell it, taste it, roll around naked in it. If you want. Behind a tree somewhere and away from the pickers and the dogs.
Discover: Befriend a pilgrim to make the most of Adam's Peak, which is where the Buddha apparently left a footprint en route to paradise: a step, literally, that inspired the ubiquitous Leave Only Footprints signs on Britain's footpaths.

Waterhole and buffaloes, Yala National Park

Yala National Park


Yala is utterly spectacular - its landscape reminiscent of the African savannah with doses of tropical coastal paradise thrown in for good measure. With plains, jungle, lakes, beaches and rocky outcrops resembling elephants, and food in abundance, it's a wonderful place to live if you happen to be animal. Humans, fortunately, are not allowed to take up residence here. And thank god for that, because leopards, elephants and monkeys are far more interesting and won't be interested in prising the rupees from your wallet. Don't worry about not seeing them - go on an early-morning safari here and you will. I promise on your mum's life.

Stay: Accommodation in Yala is no longer permitted - the closest you'll get is Chaaya Wild Yala, where log cabins surround the central complex of two bars (one of which has an observation deck), a restaurant and an excellent pool. Because it borders the park and isn't fenced, wild animals come and go as they please, so expect to be escorted to your room after dark. Stay here and you're guaranteed to have a close wildlife encounter - the more arrack you drink, the closer it will be.
See: Leopards, elephants, wild boar, buffalo, elks, kingfishers and pelicans in their tens. Snakes too, if you're unlucky.
Discover: Chaaya encourages residents to learn everything there is to know about Yala's wildlife through animal tracking, photography tutorials, wildlife slideshows and film screenings.

Goyambokka Beach, Tangalla, Sri Lanka

Tangalla 


Travel west in a tuk-tuk along the main coast road and after a couple of hours you'll arrive in Tangalla - a non-descript town whose appearance belies its beachy appeal. Continue on the road for another kilometre or two and you'll soon see what all the fuss is about: picture-perfect expanses of golden sand with surprisingly few whaley European beach bums. The water is clear, the sand is pristine and the palm trees are bloody lovely, thanks for asking.

Goyambokka is arguably Tangalla's highlight. Its main beach features a small collection of three beach shacks avec sun loungers, while a little further south-west around the bay is a smaller, smack-you-in-the-face-gorgeous little cove. There'll likely be no-one here, save for the odd fisherman (and by 'odd' I mean bringing a whole new meaning to 'bait and tackle'), a stray puppy and a couple of hammocks rocking in the breeze.

Stay:Goyambokka Guesthouse - there are four reasonably modest rooms to choose from at this tsunami-surviving colonial-style guesthouse. Room 1 is by far the largest, boasting two verandas and an outdoor shower. Newton, the live-in manager, will ensure you're exceedingly well fed on your choice of seafood. Opt for the tuna and prepare your palate for a fishy gingery explosion. That sounds disgusting, but it's really rather delicious - and superb value for money.
See: Blue Whales, if you're lucky, on a boat ride from Mirissa. Explanations from the crew are few and far between - don't expect any sea life commentary or clues as to how long you'll be at sea. Prepare yourself for six to seven hours and for Christ's sake, have a light breakfast. Water is provided, but you probably won't be told that.
Discover: Ask a local about turtle watching at Rekawa Beach. There's something disconcerting and undignified about a group of holidaymakers surrounding a turtle attempting to lay its eggs in privacy under the cover of darkness, but with limited numbers and no camera flashes it can be quite a spectacle.

Galle Fort, Sri Lanka

Galle


With its collection of Dutch and Portuguese colonial buildings, Galle is a Sri Lankan town defined by an atmosphere of calm and civility. There are no gaudy signs, meat shops or traffic horns here - just a collection of cobbled streets fronted by villas, boutiques and art galleries. Galle's ramparts, which surround its fortified section, can be circumnavigated in an hour or two, accounting for a stop at the pretty lighthouse and an overpriced Lavazza coffee. There are a couple of museums, the Dutch Reformed Church and an international cricket stadium to gawp at, too.

Stay: Rick Stein's favourite, The Sun House's food may no longer live up to its internationally-celebrated standards, but this small luxury hotel is not to be missed. All guests have a tree planted on their behalf thanks to the Sri Lankan Coast Conservation project.
See:Crepe-ology on 53 Leyn Baan Street, if you fancy a proper pancake, boss.
Discover:Sri Serendipity Publishing House - the people behind Around the Fort in 80 Lives, Sri Lanka's Other Half: A Guide to the Central, Eastern and Northern Provinces and The Suicide Club. And the Colombo guidebook I was banging on about earlier.

Sri Lanka sunset, Negombo

Negombo


Sri Lanka's answer to Weston-super-Mare (minus the huge tides and burned-down pier), Negombo is a town of run-down beach resorts and a big ol' expanse of unremarkable sand. The sea is slightly greyer, the hotels are generally decaying and lacking in taste, and low-flying aircraft rather than grebes and boobies own the skies. Indeed, Negombo's main asset is its proximity to Bandaranaike International Airport, which is precisely why we stayed there.

Its one saving grace, the beach, is ruined by the number of hawkers persistently and aggressively peddling their wares - particularly at sunset, when most holidaymakers want a bit of peace and quiet and time to reflect on the lovely holiday they've just had. "OK sir, no problem, you have look after. No buy, just look. Very many nice things. No buy, but very good price sir. OK?" If the hawkers aren't having much luck, they'll walk up to the hotel garden and shout at the guests on sun loungers. That's right, Negombo is a bit of a shithole.

Stay: Because the road between Colombo and Negombo gets shockingly busy, it's far better to base yourself in Negombo if you're flying out the following morning. A safe bet is the Paradise Beach Hotel - its staff are fantastic, the food is tasty, but it's more Playa del Inglés than paradise.
See: An Indian Ocean sunset followed by a swift retreat to the hotel.
Discover: Unnoticed details in the background of your holiday photos as you reflect on your trip outside of Negombo.

See more of my Sri Lanka images on Flickr.

London Marathon 2013: The Mad Hatter and other characters

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London Marathon Mad Hatter
This isn't a nightmare. This is happening. The Mad Hatter is hurtling towards you with the likely intent of your kidnap and subsequent smuggling to Wonderland. Fortunately, you just so happen to have a vuvuzela on your person - so you blow it in his face and hope he goes away. Which he does; completing the marathon in a respectable four-and-a-half hours.

The above happened at today's 2013 London Marathon. As did the other stuff below, some of which is arguably more terrifying.

London Marathon Mad Hatter
Sexy cheerleader London Marathon
London Marathon scary
London Marathon Stephen Sock
London Marathon Cookie Monster
London Marathon Stay Puft
London Marathon Bobby Moore
London Marathon Mohan
London Marathon Fred
London Marathon Kerry
London Marathon Roland Rat
London Marathon Dave
London Marathon old man
London Marathon money

Kelis, sledging and Iceland's unpronounceable volcano

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Eyjafjallajokull rock
Clambering aboard a sledge in the middle of June and sliding down an icecap while listening to Kelis: an activity worthy of gracing anyone's bucket list. Apart from Kelis's, perhaps. Or Bjork's. Welcome to Iceland. 

So surreally brilliant was this experience that it surely pushes the northern lights, waterfall gawping and Brennivin gulping under the midnight sun as one of this weirdly beautiful north Atlantic island's highlights. That it took place on the summit of Eyjafjallajökull, the impossible-to-pronounce volcano which spouted ash across most of Europe in 2010, made it all the more memorable. 

But rather than hark on about it, I've lovingly prepared a step-by-step guide to ascending the world's most famous volcano using the medium of digital photography. Brace yourselves…

Step 1: Find a nice man with a 4x4 and ask him for a lift "up the volcano", unless you're capable of pronouncing Ay-yah-fyad-layer-kuh-tel, which, let's not kid ourselves, you're not. If he winks at you, get out of there. If not, you're good to go.

Eyjafjallajokull jeep

Step 2: Get the portable sledges out. That 4x4 will be climbing some pretty steep hills, which means plentiful downtime when the engine needs to cool. Ask the driver to "Sveif upp bindi með nokkrum Kelis, ekki Bjork," and the stage will be set for some heated sledging action. Alas, if only that heat could prevent wet bums.

Iceland sledging
Step 3: Walk the final few yards to the summit. The 4x4 is pretty powerful, but it won't take you right to Eyjafjallajökull's summit, which consists of this massive, incongruously-positioned rock covered in blue-rinsed snow.

Eyjafjallajokull summit
   
Step 4: Don't forget your gloves, otherwise you'll start resembling an opera singer. 

Eyjafjallajokull no gloves

Step 5: Admire the views. They are pretty.

Eyjafjallajokull view

Step 6: Walk back down and around the rock towards the volcano's CRATER OF DOOM, which is fortunately a perfectly safe exercise as it's not due to erupt for another 600 years.

Eyjafjallajokull crater walk

Step 7: Look at the crater.

Eyjafjallajokull crater

Step 8: Be photographed in front of the crater.

Eyjafjallajokull

Step 9: Descend from whence you came.

Eyjafjallajokull 4x4

Step 10: En route, watch out for Mother Nature's booby traps. Tread in the wrong place and you'll end up in a snow-covered river.

Eyjafjallajokull river

I'm going to Cumbum

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On Monday evening I’ll be embarking on a voyage of discovery, flying east from London to Mumbai. The plan was to explore the sights of one of the world’s most fascinating countries, but after a few minutes on Google Maps I thought it better to instead visit places with funny names. And I’m delighted to reveal my first two destinations: Cumbum and Wankaner. Don’t they sound devine?

Cumbum India
 
Wankaner
 

I went to Mumbai and this is what happened...

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Taj Mahal hotel Mumbai
Day 1

When I woke up this morning I didn’t expect to be treated to a display from the Indian Army’s bomb disposal team. Then again, I didn’t actually sleep – I spent most of the evening sitting in extremely close proximity to a spellbound elderly Indian gentlemen; the object of his tactile awe being the mid-90s Casio watch around his wrist, or more specifically its relentlessly piercing beep. At this point I should mention that the pair of us were sitting down with a few hundred other people on a plane flying to Mumbai from London. He didn’t say a word to me during the eight hours, not even when I borrowed his pen to complete my landing slip. Now there’s a snippet of detail that will live in your memory forever.

Anyway, I was trying to write about the bomb disposal guys. Well, it appears I’ve arrived in India on National Army Day, which is celebrated in Mumbai through the medium of static World War One-style guns the size of houses, hastily-erected green tents, soldiers sitting on plastic chairs and teenagers taking crap photos of my Turkish face on camera phones. It’s an absolute hoot, especially as the army cordons off the entire area around the Gateway of India, meaning you can’t really get anywhere near it. I found this especially annoying as I promised my mum I’d go and do a selfie in front of it to demonstrate that a) I was having fun, or at least pretending to, and b) that I was still alive. I have Instagram now you see, which saves on tefelome bills.

Still, I had to make the most of it, so I tootled on over to the bomb disposal tent in the hope of seeing a live display. Or display prevention, to put it more accurately. There was something slightly uncomfortable about having such a facility yards from the Taj Mahal Palace, a hotel that only a little over five years ago bore the brunt of a horrific terrorist attack. So I suppose I was relieved to discover that all the bomb disposal guides wanted to do was sit down and stare at nothing in particular, which makes the first line of this blog so disgracefully misleading that I’m thinking of stopping right now. And right on cue, my brother’s old housemate Rachel has just walked into the hotel reception where I happen to be writing this. Honestly, you travel 5,000 miles to get away from familiar faces…

Day 2

Did you know that if you turn your watch upside down in India, you’ll see what time it is in Britain? It helps if your watch has hands, but it’s bloody well true. Today, dear reader, I went on a heritage walking tour of Mumbai’s Fort region – it was truly fascinating and very entertaining, but unfortunately this is the only thing I remember. Other than the fact that Mark Twain (whom my dad so intelligently quoted in his farewell text) stayed in India’s first five-star hotel, which today still stands but has been somewhat neglected, at least on the outside.

I walked with Saurabh, our guide; Margaux, an American girl who was taking a break from rehearsing a meticulously-choreographed routine she would be dancing at her friend’s wedding in a couple of days, and a lovely French couple who were taken by Mumbai’s ‘underwear pavement’, which does indeed resemble millions of pairs of y-fronts happily slotted together in crotchtastic unison. When the conversation moved on from pants to sport, I was devastated to discover that the pair (that nearly works, doesn’t it?) had never heard of French cricket, thus dispelling my forever-held belief that this rudimentary form of the game is exactly how it’s played across the Channel.

Later I befriended a chap, as one so easily does in India, called Asad, who recently completed a Master’s degree in Bath. To my delight he also knew of Cheltenham Town FC and the restaurants of Whitechapel, so naturally we ventured on over to Colaba Causeway for a spot of lunch, Iranian style. I told him I was planning on having dinner with Rachel again in the evening, which meant travelling on one of the commuter trains in rush hour, for it was my turn to make the effort to see her in Bandra, one of Mumbai’s northern suburbs. 10 people are killed on Mumbai’s local trains every day, so I was a little apprehensive, but Asad agreed to meet me at 18:30 to hold my hand, which fortunately doesn’t warrant a double take in India.

Mumbai’s commuter trains have first and second class, with the addition of a separate carriage for women. Asad assured me second class would be fine (something about an authentic Indian experience) as long as I subscribed to the culture of “adjustment”, which essentially means abandoning all pre-conceived ideas regarding personal space and public transport etiquette. After purchasing a ticket we strolled to the end of the platform, walked on to a surprisingly-quiet carriage and sat down on one of the carriages. It was all very civilised. By Grant Road station, a few stops up the line, we were penned in like battery chickens but still sitting down, every word of our conversation soliciting blank stares from tired commuters. Asad prompted me to stand up by the time we got to Mahim Junction and brace myself for “the push”. I managed to find a vacant handle two seconds before another chap did, so naturally he went to hold it anyway and ended up gripping my hand for the final five minutes of the journey. As the train started to slow into Khar Road, I was forcibly pushed from the carriage onto the platform, somehow managing to avoid the gap. Thankfully, the return journey a few hours later was a tad quieter…

 
Days 3-4

All I had left to do in Mumbai was see the Gateway of India at dawn, which you can too thanks to the below image, complete a top secret mission that will soon become public knowledge, and have a few Kingfishers with Asad and his entourage (one of whom had not only heard of Reggae Rajahs, whom I love, but had been to see them; and another who’s dad used to play international football for India) to celebrate my last night. Rest assured that all three activities, spread over two days, were very fun indeed, but I’ll spare you the details because after all, you’re not my stalker.

 

I went to the Konkan coast and this is what happened...

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Murud-Janjira

Day 5

The journey to Murud, a little-known destination on the Maharashtran coast around 150 kilometres south of Mumbai, took approximately six hours - not necessarily because the roads are shite, but because there’s a lot to take in en route. Once we had escaped Mumbai’s urban sprawl and the subsequent land of the shipping containers, the ‘real’ India started to appear. And very nice it was too - steep forested hills, colourful villages and glimpses of the Konkan railway, one of India’s most aesthetically-pleasing lines. And about five miles from Murud the first palm trees started appearing; always a good sign for the beach-hungry traveller.

I envisaged Murud being a kind of exclusive Goa. No European I know has heard of it, nor many Bombayites I had spoken to. And on arrival at the government-run resort just back from the main beach, it was clear there weren’t many other people around (apart from a party of Whirlpool engineers from Pune, who partied hard, as refrigerator designers and washing machine engineers tend to do, long into the night). During a stroll on aforementioned beach I noticed the imposing silhouette of Kasa Fort - an island fortress four kilometres out to sea - though at this stage I had no idea what it was. I asked the security guard, and to compensate for his lack of English he thought he’d repeat “Kasa Fort” until any other thoughts my mind may have been harbouring were totally banished. “My friend has boat, 350 rupees,” he said, gesturing towards the island. “Meh, when in Rome,” I replied, before verbally hitting his befuddled face with a firm “OK, boss”.

Before I knew it I was speeding off in a crappy boat, part of which fell off as I hurled myself aboard, to an island whose most recent function was a high-security prison. There were two chaps on the boat with me, neither of whom spoke English or made even the slightest effort to acknowledge my existence. “Please smile at me,” I asked them, “I need some reassurance that you’re not going to abandon me.” Nothing. Time to up the ante. “A little kiss maybe, just on the cheek?” Nada. It was worth a try. We arrived after 15 slightly uncomfortable minutes at sea, in both a physical and social sense, when I was unceremoniously dumped into the shallow waters, thus ruining my Peacocks finest espadrilles. My boat chums then sped off into the sunset (literally), giggling like schoolgirls (probably).

Kasa Fort is utterly decrepit; a complex of crumbling walls, arches and steps. And most of it is black, to the extent that it reminded me of Iceland’s barrenness, or the shores of hell. It’s more modest than Janjira Fort, a few kilometres to the south-east, but it’s a place you can have all to yourself, though I can’t decide whether this is nice or slightly terrifying. After 45 minutes of conflicting emotions and initiating some solitary prison-style role play, which sounds disgusting, I can safely say I’ve never been so relieved to hear the spluttering of a distant outboard motor and the sight of two unfriendly men in a boat coming for me. My heroes.

Day 6

I was only in Murud for one night, but it was a bit of a wrench to leave. It really is rather nice - at the northern end of its long, perfectly-clean beach is a huge palace overlooking the sea; in front of you is a centuries-old fort and at the southern end you can sit on an elderly donkey for a couple of rupees. This place really has everything, but this morning it was time to depart for the star attraction: Janjira Fort.

Located just 500 metres offshore from Rajpuri, a run-down fishing village not lacking in charm, Janjira is the only fort on India’s west coast to have never been conquered. By anyone, ever, despite the best efforts of the Dutch, the Marathis and those bastards from the East India Company. So who the hell did it belong to? Well, since you asked so nicely, it was built by the Siddis - descendants of sailor-traders from the Horn of Africa - way back in 1140. And yes, they were pirates. Bloody good ones.

Getting there and back costs just 20 rupees. I hung around on the quayside waiting for 29 others - for the boat only sails when 30 people are assembled – and after they and a few hundred others turned up we edged our way out of port. En route we were treated to an explanation of Janjira’s history by one of the on-board guides, whose speech was delivered entirely in Hindi and entirely in song. I had no idea what he was singing, but I was completely captivated, which proved a pleasant distraction from the ‘how many people can we fit in the boat’ game I was unwittingly a part of.

On arrival at Janjira I knew I was in for a treat. The gateway is pretty tiny given it’s the only entry point to the 22-acre fort, and once I climbed up the steps it was, to use an old cliché, like stepping back in time. Or, as I tried to joke to one of my Indian counterparts, like a set from Indiana Jones. He humoured me with a smile sans eye contact.

Built in the 15th century, Janjira’s 19 rounded bastions are still intact, as is each facility inside - from a freshwater lake (amazingly, when the fort was being built, a natural spring was discovered, so everyone who lived there had on-demand access to fresh water) to a collection of canons and a slowly-decaying mosque. It’s spellbinding, and I could have spent all day there. Hindi-only guides are available to show you around - it’s not possible to keep up with everything but I got the gist, and my guide was so charismatic that, to be honest, not understanding everything didn’t matter. Besides, there was a small group of university students visiting for the day who didn’t mind translating the odd detail. And the details were odd, but I’ll let you discover them for yourself when you come here, which is the solitary aim of this post. You think I’m writing this to entertain you? You’re so naïve.

I was looking forward to the journey back to shore as our guides promised to rig the sails (we were pulled there by a tug – tugged, if you will), but first we had to clamber aboard. Everyone thought they were being polite by obligingly moving towards one end of the boat so that others could board, which had the inevitable effect of making the vessel tip to a fraction of the point of no return. It was mildly exhilarating.

Days 7-8

After departing Murud-Janjira we proceeded to Chiplun, which I presumed would be no more than a handy stop-off roughly equidistant between Mumbai and Goa. And while the town is nothing to write home about, or at least blog about, the surrounding hills are. I rested my head at the Riverview Resort (when one travels to India one must make the effort to slum it, you know), which affords genuinely stunning views down to the Vashishsti River and the Konkan Railway. It also has the most spectacular pool I’ve seen in India so far, perfectly located for watching the sunset. I spent the night tucking into a creamy Malai Kofta, rather pleased with myself for discovering somewhere so bloody lovely, minus any other western faces.

Next stop Ganpatipule, a little further down the coast, which Maharashtra Tourism labels as “one of the most spectacular beaches along the Konkan Coast”. And they’re not wrong - it’s as pretty as anything I’ve seen in Goa, minus the over-development. Its appeal goes beyond aesthetics, though - pilgrims visit Ganpatipule’s temple and walk around the hill whose base it sits on as a mark of respect. So a little bit of culture ‘pon the beach, which is nice.

I went to Goa and this is what happened...

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Goa beach
Days 9-11

August 2008: Gordon Brown was fumbling around the prime minister’s office, the English football team were halfway through their four-year hiatus from tournament football, and I was enjoying that lovely little window between graduating and getting a proper job. So I decided to travel to Goa, oblivious to the fact it was the height of the monsoon. On arrival in the sleepy little fishing village/seasonal resort town of Benaulim I realised why it was so quiet, save for the relentless thudding of golf ball-sized drops of rain. The beach resembled coastal Norfolk after a period of chronic global warming, complete with packs of stray dogs. There wasn’t an orgy enthusiast-populated tepee in sight. It was massively disappointing.

It’s taken nearly six years to return, but here I am again in Benaulim. I’m alone, there’s no power and my stomach is spinning right round baby right round, but before I tell you more about the wonderful time I’m having, let me take you on a journey. A journey to north Goa, a land of hippies old and young, drugs hard and soft and Russians unfriendly and unfriendly. Oh, and where I have spent the past few days. Or rather tried to.
 
After travelling across the Maharashtra-Goa border, my first stop was Anjuna - a place chiefly famous for its Wednesday morning flea market and over-developed beach. I noticed that my room’s only door, facing the guesthouse’s garden with direct street access, was of the sliding glass variety and featured a charming handmade lock that could be picked by a monkey with a cocktail stick (a surprisingly common occurrence in this part of the world). Things got worse when the chap at ‘reception’ insisted on keeping my passport for four hours until some guy turned up to photocopy it on his magical machine.

To make myself feel better I hired a moped - no questions asked - and scootered on down to the crowded beach, where I was approached by approximately 20 drug dealers in quick succession. This impeded my ability to find a little patch of seaside sanctuary, a task that was challenging enough given the plethora of drunk Russian men in impossibly-tight swimming trunks. Fuck this, I muttered to a tag-along stray, before heading back to the guesthouse, sleeping, waking up, and catching a taxi to Panjim, the state capital.
 
Most travellers bypass Panjim, but it’s absolutely worth seeing. The old quarter is jam-packed with quaint Portuguese colonial houses, most of which are red, blue or yellow - though unlike Nuuk in Greenland the colours don’t correspond to the occupier’s profession. Peppered throughout the districts of Sao Tome and Fontainhas are cafes, tea houses and boutique shops, and inside most are actual Goans, whose existence by this point I wasn’t entirely sure of. My two-night stay here was interrupted only by a swift visit to the coastal ‘resort’ of Arambol in Goa’s far north, a destination I wasn’t quite able to focus on given the story Diogo, my taxi driver, told on the way there. In 1987 he was asked to drive a customer from Panjim to Calcutta - a distance of over 2,000 km. Diogo drove continuously for four days and four nights - breaks he couldn’t do because the passenger had an urgent funeral to attend. His own. That’s right, the passenger was stone-cold dead: a 24-year-old man who tragically died in a construction accident. Diogo chain-smoked continuously from day two, partly to stay awake but also to mask the smell coming from the back seat. “That back seat?” I asked. “No sir, different car.”

 

Days 12-14

My Anjuna-inflicted wounds sufficiently licked (despite the image of necrocab), it was onwards to Benaulim, which I have already fabulously described (you are probably wondering why I went back there. I think it was nostalgia). But since I wrote the above paragraphs, two unexpected things have happened to me; one of which was nice, the other not so. As my girlfriend (who is real – you can check her Facebook profile and everything) will tell you, I’m not one for complaining, which is why I haven’t mentioned my chronic tooth ache until now. Well, it got to the point where a trip to the dentist was needed - something I haven’t done since 2008, a year I have also already fabulously described.

Dr Vas did unspeakable things to me, but for 150 rupees I was happy to walk out of there with a diagnosis and a prescription. A gum abscess that would clear in three to four days with salt water and some gum that tastes like curry. Praise be. I felt a little cheated that my bravery wasn’t rewarded with a sticker, so I decided to treat myself to a nice beachside lunch. On arrival the sands were surprisingly quiet save for - wait, what’s that? A litter of puppies! I’m having trouble recalling the two hours I spent with them as they were probably the happiest of my life; made happier still given the fact that I’m yet to contract rabies. Goa, I think I’ve fallen for you.

 

Days 15-18

With my time in Benaulim having drawn to an impossibly-blissful close, I ventured further south to a beach hut in Palolem. En route I stopped at Cola, a destination Lonely Planet describes as “one of south Goa’s most gorgeous hidden beach gems”. And hidden is the operative word, because unless you know which turning to take, it’s near-impossible to find. Flanked by forested hills, the beach is backed by a gorgeous freshwater lagoon, whose source is a spring just a few hundred metres inland. The water is absolutely pristine - rare for a natural watercourse in India - and fortunately free of snakes and alligators, meaning it’s absolutely perfect for swimming. The lagoon is flanked on either side by a modest collection of beach huts, each having its own space and identity (which is absolutely not the case in Palolem, as I was to discover). It’s the closest thing to paradise I’ve seen, and I was rather reluctant to leave.

The problem with Cola, inevitably, is that every other beach visited thereafter isn’t as good, and unfortunately Palolem is no exception. It’s far prettier than anywhere in the north, but such is the density of huts and restaurants that the place has a festival feel, which may not be the thing you’re after. For example, I woke up to Daft Punk’s Get Lucky playing next door and the unmistakable, slightly-disconcerting-when-it’s-so-close sound of wee on porcelain. I could practically feel the splash on my sleepy face through the wafer-thin coir. There were also two immensely irritating firework displays during the night: one at 2.30, the other at 4.30, each going on for half an hour. Real India this is not, so I did what any aspiring bon vivant would and got out of there; specifically back to Cola, convinced by this point that it’s among the most beautiful places in the world. I was lucky enough to find one of those brilliant beach huts I was banging on about, so there I stayed, enjoying barbequed seafood and probably the best sunset I’ve laid my eyes on. Jobs a good'un.

 

I went to Hampi and Bangalore and this is what happened...

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Temple in Hampi

Thursday 30th January

The eagle-eyed pedants among you will notice that I’m now using dates rather than days. The reason is simple: I’m so awful at maths that even basic sequential patterns baffle me, to the extent that I was unintentionally adding days that hadn’t happened, a reoccurring mistake that threatened to get out of control.

In more exciting news, hello from Hampi. I arrived this afternoon after an eight-hour train journey from Margao, whose train station is confusingly spelled Madgaon. The journey was pleasantly unremarkable, save for the masochist English girl sat opposite, who spent the entire journey in the same cross-legged position, her defiant toes never so much as twitching. “That was quite a feet of endurance”, I wanted to tell her at journey’s end, before realising it was probably the worst idea I’ve ever had.

I did manage a little kip on the train, though it was cut short by loud clapping and stomping. I opened my eyes to see a woman’s surprisingly broad sari-draped back about nine inches from my face. When she turned around I was struck by her prominent jaw and large hands. Then it clicked - ‘she’ was a hijra, one of India’s unfortunately-downtrodden third gender. I rewarded her heavy-footed rhythm with 10 rupees, at which point she was happy to dance her way to the next berth to threaten somebody else with a curse.

On arrival at Hospet Junction, Hampi’s closest station, I caught a rickshaw with a 49-year-old New Yorker called Jeff, who happens to be the youngest almost-quinquagenarian I’ve seen. We arrived at Pushpa Guest House to be greeted by Raghu, the friendly-yet-money-grabbing owner, who hastily introduced us to ‘Prince’, a local tour guide he’s affiliated with. What a nobhead he turned out to be; a conclusion I should have arrived at immediately after learning his ‘name’, which definitely wasn’t ‘real’. After receiving the hard-sell and haggling until my voice all but disappeared, Jeff and I agreed, wearily and reluctantly, to half a day’s sightseeing for the equivalent of a fiver. How bad could it be?

 

Friday 31st January

Prince greeted us at 10 am, only to tell us he had to go to the bank in Hospet, 15 km away, to deposit a wad of cash. He ushered us into a nearby rickshaw, whose juvenile driver tugged on the accelerator before we could question what the bloody hell was going on. Our ‘guide’ never told us his name, nor cared to ask ours, but Jeff and I grew to love him. His limited English was made up for by his relentless spouting of misinformation: apparently, the whole of Hampi was built in 50 years rather than two centuries, while the population in its heyday was a mere 2,000, not the half a million universally quoted in the guidebooks. If you’ve ever been on the Bullshit London tour, you’ll know how fun this can be, even if it felt a bit like we were actually being shitted on.

Still, we got to see Hampi’s magnificent Royal Enclosure and Islamic Quarter at our own pace - the driver wasn’t interested in getting out and explaining the context behind the centuries-old ruins, which suited us just fine. And while I’m not particularly interested in regurgitating Hampi’s fascinating history in this here blog, I will mention that there are approximately 1,600 temples, monuments and structures to explore. Its scale is almost overwhelming, and I don’t think there’s anywhere on the planet quite like it.

 

Saturday 1st February

I woke at 5:30 for an illicit rendezvous with Prabu, the Pushpa housekeeper who supplements his incoming by moonlighting, mostly literally, as a sunrise guide. Remarkably petit and as agile as a cat, Prabu happens to be Hampi’s most famous man. Cries of “Mr Bean! Mr Bean!” ring out when he hops, skips and jumps around the bazaar, and it’s true - there’s something of the Bean about him. “All these blah-blah people,” he told me the day before, “Always calling me Mr Bean. But it’s no problem, I like Mr Bean, very funny.” Which, when read back, sounds exactly like Data off of the Goonies. Go on, read it again. Told you, didn’t I? Ha ha ha. God, I love that film.

Prabu’s boundless enthusiasm was funny yesterday, but at this ungodly hour it was as irritating as being trapped in a lift with a flatulent Jedward. Unlike Rowan Atkinson’s loveable buffoon, Prabu has a proper voice on him (or rather in him, constantly fighting, and winning, to get out), and he spoke so quickly that only certain words and phrases registered, namely “sun”, “long” and “time”. It turned out that we had climbed Matunga Hill a whole hour before dawn, and Mr Bean’s miscalculation meant he had to depart 15 minutes before sunrise to get to work on time, leaving me on top of an unfamiliar hill frequented by black bears. Which, as the following photo shows, was absolutely worth it.

Alcohol is forbidden in Hampi, so yesterday Jeff went in search of beer while I had a nap. He ended up spending most of the afternoon at a watering hole in nearby Kamalpur. Full of solitary drunks young and old - all male and all whisky drinkers - Jeff described it as “the saddest place on earth”. He also said he absolutely loved it, so it seemed like a good idea to return this afternoon. And if there was one thing I needed after my Mr Bean morning, it was a cool Kingfisher.

My god, was Jeff right. Stepping over empty bottles and streams of spilled whisky to our table, the bar was the most tragic place I’ve laid eyes on. Looking around, everyone was drinking scotch from cartons costing 60 rupees (60 p). And if you couldn’t stump up the cash then no problem - 20 rupees would get you a third of a carton. Jeff and I were quickly surrounded and asked all the usual questions, though things escalated when one chap, pictured below, took off his shirt and squared up to me, demanding a play fight minus any good humour. Seconds before he was bent over a tableside bucket discharging caramel-coloured gloop from his oesophagus, so I decided to politely decline his kind offer.       

 

Sunday 2nd February

Following a lazy day soaking up the atmosphere of Backpackerstan, an appropriate nickname for Hampi Bazaar (I decided to sport a pony tail to fit in), it was onwards to Hospet Junction for the overnight train to Bangalore. After locating my berth I fell into blissful unconsciousness in seconds, only slightly concerned that I had to wake at 05:55 to summon the strength to disembark at Bangalore City Junction.

 

Monday 3rd - Tuesday 4th February

I awoke on time, wahoo! I even got to the carriage door before anybody else - but despite being rather pleased with myself, it turned out I was in an awkward situation. With a backpack, holdall and manbag hanging from my shoulders, I was too loaded up to let someone pass in front of me, while there was no chance of turning back. And in India, when a train pulls into a station the able-bodied jump off almost immediately. It was a case of jump or be pushed, so I jumped, ungraciously, but somehow managing to stay on my feet. By the time I regained my composure I realised the exit was right in front of me. Today was going to be a good day. Welcome to Bangalore.

Full of home comforts and familiar-looking European faces, Bangalore is an easy city to settle into, though it’s a bit of a bastard getting around. There aren’t any stand-out sights, which I actually quite enjoyed as it meant getting into the swing of things without having a to-see list to tick off. During my couple of days here I tasted a particularly delicious beef lasagne, sipped a Western-style coffee and travelled in a pre-paid taxi. How bloody civilised. I could have happily spent an extra night here, but I had a very important date with a golf resort, which you shall shortly read all about. Oh goody.

I went to Coorg, Kannur, Mysore and Ooty (phew) and this is what happened…

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kannur theyyam

Wednesday 5th - Thursday 6th February

It’s never a nice feeling when your taxi doesn’t turn up, and by the time I flagged a rickshaw to take me to Bangalore station I wasn’t particularly confident about making my 11:30 train to Mysore Junction, which sounds like it should be a marvellous euphemism. Fortunately, I was gifted a fearless driver who promised to get me there on time; an obligation fulfilled thanks to manoeuvres that in other countries would have landed him with a prison sentence. In India, it meant an extra 50 rupees.

It was a relatively short two-and-a-half journey to Mysore, during which a middle-aged smartly-dressed man by the name of Nav introduced himself. I’m just about getting used to the lack of pretence when it comes to Indian introductions - Nav happily picked up my manbag on the adjacent seat, placed it on my lap and plonked himself down. “And what is your good name, sir?” “Oh, hi. It’s Charlie. Is that a good name?” “Very good, sir.” After five minutes of small talk he moved to a seat five rows in front and initiated the same conversation with two Western women. “Charlie! Charlie!” he shouted down the packed carriage, “These women are from London too!” Cue the obligatory exchange of awkward smiles.
 
golf in Coorg
I’d be coming back to Mysore in a few days’ time, but for now I had a further transfer to Coorg: a lush region of hills, forest, coffee plantations and, er, golf courses, in Karnataka’s south-west corner, and which was a state in its own right until 1956. Lonely Planet says a visit here is “rejuvenation guaranteed”, and they’re absolutely right - with a pleasantly cool climate and overwhelming greenery, it’s the perfect antidote to the traffic fumes and congestion of Bangalore. Coffee, bananas, lemons, mangoes, cherries, cashew nuts and rice are all cultivated here, so if you enjoy putting tasty things in your mouth, you’ll absolutely love Coorg - especially as it’s relatively undiscovered by overseas tourists. And there are elephants! And tigers! Subtext: I want to be back in Coorg.

Friday 7th - Saturday 8th February

Northern Kerala is only down the road from Coorg, so it seemed rude not to pay this bloody beautiful part of the world a visit. Most Kerala-bound travellers head south to Cochin, Alleppey or Varkala, so I was quite looking forward to seeing the lesser-explored north. Unspoilt palm-fringed beaches aside, the big draw here is Theyyam; a ritualistic art form pre-dating Hinduism native to the villages surrounding Kannur.

An intensely local affair (this is a religious ritual, not a dance performance), protagonists portray one of 450 deities through elaborate red and orange-coloured costumes, some of which are up to seven metres high. It’s an utterly spellbinding spectacle that’s worth devoting an entire day to, and I needn’t have worried about turning up with my camera and annoying locals with my ignorance. I lost count of the number of friendly greetings, offers of food and extremely helpful explanations - it was such a nice experience, in fact, that I had absolutely no desire to return to my hotel.

Sunday 9th - Monday 10th February

My itinerary was craftily engineered to enable a return to Coorg, where I stopped for a delicious home-cooked lunch en route to Mysore from Kannur. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: Coorg is beautiful. Go there. If you do, please let me know whether you think the Coorgi accent sounds remarkably similar to the meerkat from Compare the Meerkat (I specifically mean Aleksandr Orlov, not a generic Russian twang): a reason to visit in itself.

It took just over four hours to reach Mysore, which meant plenty of time to visit the city’s famed palace, whose appeal I absolutely do not understand. Grand only in terms of scale, this unloved, ill-maintained monument to tack is quite possibly southern India’s most overrated attraction. Its saving grace is the nightly ‘light show’, which sees the entire building beautifully lit by thousands of attached bulbs, which must scare the shit out of the pigeons living on them (and indeed does, on closer inspection). A brass band strikes up shortly afterwards, and the ambience is suddenly rather pleasant.

But in case you think I’m having a lovely time in the beautiful tropical paradise that is southern India, you’ll be delighted to hear that my Monday morning began in similar vein to yours, by which I mean I got up early and sat in traffic. I was catching the early-morning bus to Ooty, the famous hill station in the Nilgiris (aka the Blue Mountains) that, by all accounts, has been ruined by mass domestic tourism. The journey into the heavens took my breath and raised my hairs, of which there are probably millions (you should have seen the looks those unnaturally-smooth Russians gave me on the beach in Goa) - after passing through the Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary, the road suddenly climbs into one of the most gob-smackingly pretty mountainscapes I’ve seen: in the background are dramatic peaks and picture-perfect valleys, while in the foreground are coffee plantations and towering eucalyptus trees. I required a good ten-minute sit-down on arrival in Ooty just to get over what I had seen.

It turned out to be a little longer than ten minutes, for the sight of Ooty physically drains the wanderlust from one’s pores. The rickshaw ride from the bus station to my hotel revealed a polluted-looking lake, lots of dust and so, so many signs, all of which compete for your attention with ginormous fonts, foul colours and false promises. India, it appears, is where graphic design and subtlety took each other’s hands, walked to the top of the nearest cliff and jumped to their deaths. In other parts of the country the signs are almost endearing, but here they're an insult to the surroundings. Just as I was about to write a strongly-worded letter to no one in particular, I realised that I was cold, which made sense because I was 2,000 metres high. On reaching my ‘mountain cottage’, a description that should be reported to Indian trading standards (think concrete box accommodating a bed, comically-placed TV and redundant fireplace), I put on my hoody and fell asleep to Arsenal getting whoop-assed by Liverpool.
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